A Rainy Day on the Camino: Embracing the Elements
Adapted from Alison's diary entry:
Today marked our first official rainy day on the Camino that wasn’t a rest day. We set off prepared, decked out in rain jackets and backpack covers, ready to face the weather. The day began with a picturesque walk over a sandstone bridge, the Rio Burbia flowing steadily below. Following the iconic scallop shells, we ventured onto the old highway, which was quiet except for the occasional speeding car. Above us, the new highway stretched in a straight line, while we meandered alongside the river, taking in the serene, rain-soaked landscape.
It didn’t take long for the rain to pick up, and we quickly sought shelter under the highway to put on our rain pants. Once suited up, we continued on, but the rain soon turned into a downpour. At the next underpass, we added ponchos to the mix, ensuring our backpack straps stayed dry and preventing water from trickling down our backs. Fully armored against the elements, we pressed on.
A short while later, we stopped at a rest area for a quick toilet break and a snack—a piece of cake to keep us going. Crossing the road, we walked through the quiet hamlet of Pereje. It was still early, and the town felt sleepy, with nothing open yet. The rain added a peaceful, almost meditative quality to the walk.
About a kilometre before reaching Trabadelo, the scenery shifted. We found ourselves walking beneath a canopy of old chestnut trees, their branches arching over the road like a natural tunnel. It was a magical stretch, feeling as though the trees were embracing us as we passed through.
As we entered Trabadelo, it became clear that this was a timber town. Split logs lined the sides of the road, and stacks of sawn timber planks were neatly piled, ready for transport. The town had a quiet, laid-back vibe, and we stopped at the first open café we found. The lady behind the counter was clearly overwhelmed, juggling a growing line of pilgrims all on her own. Despite the chaos, we managed to grab a cup of tea and a donut—a simple but satisfying lunch to fuel the rest of our day.
After a morning of walking in the rain, I realized I’d reached my limit for the day. Sometimes, listening to your body is the most important part of the journey, so I decided to take a taxi to our next stop. Alison kindly asked the overworked but incredibly helpful lady at the café if she could call a taxi for me when she had a moment.
When I arrived at the hotel, I checked in and let them know I was aware I was early. I didn’t mind waiting until my room was ready—after all, a little patience is part of the adventure. Once the room was prepared, I made my way upstairs, grateful for the chance to settle in and rest.
Sometimes, the Camino teaches us to slow down, to take care of ourselves, and to appreciate the small comforts—like a warm, dry room after a rainy morning. Today was a reminder that it’s okay to pause and recharge, so I can continue the journey with renewed energy tomorrow.
Alison:
Louise has decided to catch a taxi from here. With her flu and the rain it was getting a bit too much.
I was pretty pleased with myself. I asked the lady if she could call a taxi for us to las Herrerias, and she understood what I was saying. No strange look or anything just si si. And she when straight to the phone and called a taxi. After the taxi arrived Kim and I were back on the road.
At La Portola de Valcarce. There was a large hotel however the buses were pulling up. So we walked on into the village proper. At the end of f the village there was one place open we didn’t care what the food was like we just wanted to get out of the rain. Ponchos off outside and inside we go. One spare table so we sat down another couple joined us as there was no more room. A slice of pizza. Traditional American pizza. Bend the slice in half and eat. Pizza slices was all they served.
Vega de Valcarce and the castle ruins on the top of the mountain. We are not climbing up there in the rain. On we go. Only 3.5km to our hotel. First one, we are not even into the town yet. We opened the door there was nobody at reception. I looked at those narrow stairs and Kim says I hope we don’t have to carry our bags up those stairs, I can’t see a lift. I was thinking the same thing. Then a guy comes walking down from the bar.
The first thing we asked was if Louise had checked in. No nobody has checked in. Kim and I look at each other. Where is she? Are you sure? No, no-one. So we check-in.. oh sorry, yes, yes, your friend has checked in. She is in the double room. Drama over. Checked in, no passports required. Your bags are in your room. Foreheads wiped, smiles on faces. Dinner is at 6. Wet gear off, shower for Kim and a bath for me and time to get ready for dinner. I think all I have done today is walk and eat. Four cups of tea today and all with milk separate. Record. Usually it’s one maybe two and we can’t get it right. Starting to workout my Spanish. Well enough to order a table, tea, a softdrink, something to eat, the bill and a taxi. Oh yes and where the bathroom is. All the important things.
The rain may have slowed us down, but it also added a unique charm to the journey. Walking through the chestnut tunnel, watching the Rio Burbia flow, and experiencing the quiet resilience of Trabadelo reminded us that even on a rainy day, the Camino has its own kind of magic.
Here’s to embracing the elements and finding beauty in every step, rain or shine!
17,833 steps 12.51km - 8km by Taxi
Accommodation: Paraiso del Bierzo
Kim, Louise & Alison
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