Camino Frances 15 May 2024 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria

 A Short and Sweet Day on the Camino: Taxis, Misty Mountains, and Almond Cake

Alison: 

Today’s walk was meant to be short and sweet, but sometimes the Camino has other plans. Louise decided yesterday that she needed a rest day to recover, and this morning, Kim woke up with a head cold—likely a souvenir from walking in the rain yesterday. So, with two of our team down, the three of us opted for a taxi instead. Honestly, I wasn’t complaining. Today’s stretch is known as the steepest part of our trail—a gruelling 9km straight uphill. A ride sounded like a pretty good alternative. 

After breakfast, we tried to book a taxi, but they were all booked out. Thankfully, the owner of our accommodation came to the rescue and called a friend who could drive us. Our driver was fantastic—he took us along the Camino route as closely as possible, pointing out important landmarks and showing us where the trail diverged from the road or crossed over. We followed the bike path, which offered stunning views even from the comfort of the car. 

One of the highlights was a quick stop at the highest point of O’Cebreiro. We didn’t get out of the car, but we soaked in the misty views of the mountains. To the west, you’d normally see Sarria, and to the east, León—but today, all we saw was a sea of mist. Our driver also stopped so we could snap a photo of the O’Cebreiro village pallozas—unique oval structures with conical thatched roofs that slope low to the ground. These traditional buildings once housed both animals and people, keeping them warm during the harsh winter snow. Now, they serve as a museum, preserving a slice of local history. 

After driving through Linares, we arrived at Alto San Roque, one of the highest altitude points on the Camino. Here, a striking bronze statue, designed by Galician sculptor José María Acuña López and unveiled in 1993. is of a pilgrim looking as though he’s walking with fierce determination into the wind. And windy it was! At 3 degrees Celsius, we braved the chill for a quick photo before hopping back into the warmth of the car. 

We made it to our hotel, Casa Galego, in record time. Even though we didn’t leave until 10 am, we practically flew up that mountain. Who knew we could move so fast when we put our minds to it? Our rooms weren’t ready yet, which we expected, so we settled in for morning tea. The star of the show was the Tarta de Santiago—a delicious almond cake that tasted like it was made with almond meal. I need to get the recipe for this! Paired with a perfectly brewed cup of tea, it was the perfect way to warm up. 

For some reason, we all ended up with separate rooms today. Not that we’re complaining—it’s nice to have a little space to ourselves. Our stop for the night is Fonfría, a tiny village with a population of just 31. There’s not much to do here, especially in the rain, but they do have a laundry, so we took advantage of that. By 1:45 pm, our luggage had arrived, and our washing was on. 

Dinner was early—5:30 pm—and we all opted for hamburguesas. Simple, hearty, and exactly what we needed after a day of misty mountain views and steep climbs (even if we did them by car). 

Steps 2,840 Taxi 25km

Accommodation:  Casa Galego

Today may not have gone as planned, but sometimes the days turn out to be the most memorable. Here’s to rest, recovery, and the unexpected joys of the Camino! 

Buen Camino!

Kim, Louise & Alison