Walking to Tricastela – Rain, Mud, and Chestnut Trees
Walking in the
rain hasn’t been kind to my lungs. Despite the cold and flu tablets I’ve picked
up along the way, and the occasional help from my Ventolin puffer when I’m short of
breath, I can feel my body telling me to slow down. Today, I’ve decided to take
another day off from walking in the rain.
It’s not an
easy decision—part of me feels like I should push through, but I know that
taking care of myself now is the only way I’ll make it to the end of this
journey. A few days of rest in the middle might feel like a pause, but they’re
also an investment in my health and stamina. I don’t see it as cheating; I see
it as necessary.
The Camino is
as much about listening to your body as it is about putting one foot in front
of the other. Sometimes, the bravest thing you can do is stop, rest, and give
yourself the chance to recover. After all, the goal isn’t just to finish—it’s
to finish well.
Alison:
Today started early with a walk down the mountain to Tricastela, while Louise opted for a taxi again. Our journey began through Fonfría, where we passed the 16th-century Iglesia de San Juan. Unfortunately, the church was closed, and despite peeking through the cracks in the doors, we couldn’t catch a glimpse of the interior. A bit of a mystery left unsolved!
Next, we
entered an oak forest, and I couldn’t resist stopping to take a photo of Kim
walking through the trees. It felt like a place where you could live off the
land—chestnuts, acorns, and pine nuts seemed plentiful enough to sustain you
through winter.
The walk uphill
was a battle against the wind, which felt strong enough to blow me back down
the slope. I couldn’t help but think of the statue of St. James we saw
yesterday—steadfast and determined. Pushing forward, we were rewarded as the
fog began to lift, revealing stunning views of Fillobal in the valley below,
flanked by two quarries on either side.
Pasantes, a small hamlet on a steep slope, greeted us with a ridged concrete road designed for extra grip. Cows followed the same path, moving to their next pasture and leaving behind a trail of sloppy cow cakes mixed with mud and puddles. Navigating this messy stretch was a challenge, but the surrounding pastures and hillsides were breathtaking—ever-changing landscapes that never fail to amaze.
By the time we
reached Ramil, the rain had mostly stopped, with only the occasional sprinkle.
There, we encountered a massive chestnut tree right in the middle of the road.
Its size was awe-inspiring—I doubt three of us could have encircled it with our
arms!
Finally, we
made our way downhill to Tricastela, where Louise had already checked us into
the Iberik Hotel. After dropping off our luggage, we met up with
her and headed to a local restaurant for lunch. We opted for the menu
del día again, but I’ll remind myself not to do that next time—it’s
simply too much food! My seafood paella starter was delicious, but I couldn’t
finish my main course, and we ended up taking our desserts back to the hotel.
A post-lunch
stroll around town helped us work off the meal. We visited the Igrexa
Santiago de Tricastela, which still retains its original apse and bell
tower, and admired the stone cross near the Way—a distinctive landmark of the
area. We also stopped by the ancient smithy, a fascinating glimpse into the
town’s history.
Later, we
ventured out again with Kim and Louise to buy Kim a poncho. She’d been
borrowing Louise’s while Louise took the taxi, but with Louise walking
tomorrow, it was time for her own.
Dinner ended on
a sweet note with Tarta de Santiago, courtesy of Louise some chocolate, who had
picked it up from the supermarket across the road while we were poncho
shopping. A perfect end to a day filled with rain, mud, and unforgettable
scenery.
Steps 5,137 Taxi 12km
Accommodation: Iberk Hotel
Kim, Louise & Alison
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