Camino Frances 17 May 2024 - Tricastela to Sarria

 2 Different Trails

Today, Alison decided to take the scenic route through Samos to visit the stunning monastery, while Kim and I opted for a shorter path via Montan.

Our adventure kicked off with a serene yet invigorating uphill trek along a tranquil rural path, winding its way toward the charming village of San Xil. The trail was a gentle introduction to the Camino's magic, with every step revealing the quiet beauty of the countryside. 

The landscape around us was nothing short of breathtaking. Rolling hills stretched endlessly, their curves softened by lush green meadows that seemed to glow in the sunlight. Every now and then, the sparkling waters of the River Sarria peeked through the scenery, adding a touch of serenity to the already picturesque views. 

It was a tapestry of nature’s finest work—a perfect blend of earth, water, and sky that felt almost too beautiful to be real. For pilgrims walking the Camino Francés, this stretch is a gentle reminder of why the journey is as rewarding as the destination. The rhythm of the trail, the camaraderie of fellow travellers, and the ever-changing vistas made it a day to remember, filled with both adventure and heartfelt connection.

Just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, we were greeted by a delightful surprise—reuniting with Alison on the road, moments before reaching Sarria. It was one of those serendipitous moments that reminded us how the Camino has a way of bringing people together, even when their journeys take different paths. Each of us had been savoring our own unique slice of the Camino experience, yet here we were, reconnected under the vast, open skies of Galicia. 

Alison:

Out the door a 8.10 turn left and on my way to Samos. Cross Rio Oribio and I am in the forest surrounded by oak and chestnut trees.

The cow pastures are gone. The hills and the forest begin.

I am walking on a suspended bridge through the canopy of the forest. To see the world from the tree tops is an experience not seen on your average day. Looking below to the river cascading underneath, you can imagine the trout hopping through the freezing waters. Tonight’s dinner on the table in a few hours.

Back to road level. The trees look so large from here, as I was walking in the canopies before. Walking with the river below  on the left and the towering hand cut cliffs on the right.  The rocks, the waterfalls and the rain. A quick stop to put the poncho on.

Back on the wooden canopy bridge. These are beautiful additions to our walk but they do get slippery when they get wet.

Out of the tree tops and time to descend.

From here most of the track is a narrow walking trail, lush and tree covered. We have been winding down the trail a bit and now we have come the bottom of the valley with a narrow strip of cow pastures and farmland on the left hand side and the Rio Oribio running by.

An uphill climb to the tiny hamlet of Lastres then back downhill.

We are again leaving the valley and river behind as we approach St Martin. Up and up we go winding around the side of the mountain.  Through the hamlet and still up we go to reach the highway.   Using the underpass tunnel we arrive on the other side of the highway. Here it is, the monastery in the valley below. Quick photo stop. I thought we were climbing to get to the monastery but no the monks are from the Benedictine order, so they are farmers. Down to the bottom we go.  Half an hour until the tour begins. Time you a cup of tea and cake before I walk around to the monastery. Ticket bought. We wait in the portico out of the rain.

The Mozarabic chapel of San Salvador is the only surviving part of the romanesque monastery finished in 960.  The rest was rebuilt over 16-18th century after fires and raids. Ranging from Renaissance and Baroque styles. Yet another fire in 1951 destroyed all the timber floors and roof of one of the wings which were rebuilt. The stone wall structure stayed intact. The monastery was started by St Benedict.  So in the shop guess what was for sale. Bottles of Benedictine. Sorry no room in my suitcase to lug around bottles for the next couple of weeks.  They may not survive the luggage transfer.

Out of the hidden valley and back on the road. More rambling through the chestnut trees, up and down the rolling hills to Sarria.  It’s strange we are 4km out of the city and still surrounded by farms.  In our rooms. Time for a shower and rest then off to find somewhere for dinner. No menu tonight. One course only then back to bed to rest our weary bones, so we are ready for rest day tomorrow.

Steps 36,056

Accommodation: Casa Solance

Kim, Louise & Alison