Skip to main content

Camino Frances 21 May 2024 - Ventas de Naran to Palias de Rei

Visitor in night and a short cut

Question for the day:  We asked our families on Whats App - What is this?


The only response we got was from Gary, who suggested it was a TV Antena.

"The structure depicted in the image is an hórreo, a traditional granary common in the northwest Iberian Peninsula, particularly in Galicia, Spain. The structure depicted in the image is an hórreo, a traditional granary common in the northwest Iberian Peninsula, particularly in Galicia, Spain" - Google image search

Adapted from Alison's diary entry:

Kim couldn’t find the motivation to leave the warmth of the bed this morning. Maybe it was the rain tapping steadily on the window, the lingering flu, or just sheer exhaustion—whatever it was, it had her firmly under its spell.  

Yesterday, I thought I had the room to myself. That illusion was shattered this morning when I returned from the bathroom to find my roommate poking his head out of the stone wall. A little brown mouse, quick and curious, darted back into his hole as soon as he saw me. “You just stay in there,” I said, stamping my feet for emphasis. But then, almost instinctively, I added a cheerful “Hola!” because, well, why not?  

The rain, unfortunately, didn’t share the mouse’s shyness and returned with a vengeance.  

Now, we’re waiting in the ante-chamber for our transfer. The space is striking, with an exposed gable ceiling and a massive ridge beam measuring a full foot by foot. The restaurant nearby boasts even larger beams, a testament to the craftsmanship of this place.  

My little cottage, cozy and quaint, looks like it was once a tool shed tucked beneath the shelter of a grand oak tree. It’s charming in its simplicity, a perfect hideaway.  


Still, we wait for our transfer. The driver, who also happens to be the cook, left over half an hour ago to drop off the last group. Patience, it seems, is part of the journey.  

When we finally hit the road, we were given a discount for the day—a small but welcome surprise. The driver dropped us off at an intersection with the Camino instead of taking us back to town. We had already driven the other 3km yesterday, so we didn’t miss much. The walk was easy, with gentle inclines and descents, though the icy rain nipped at my hands. I made a mental note to find shelter under the tree canopies to put on my gloves.  

After passing through Portos, we stopped at Meson A Brea, a roadside café in the middle of nowhere, for morning tea. The terrace, usually shaded by trees, was too wet to enjoy, so we opted for the warm, stone-walled interior. The tea was perfect, a small comfort in the damp weather.  

As we wandered through misty valleys and dense forests, it was easy to imagine Trasgos—mischievous elves from Galician folklore—lurking among the trees, playing tricks on unsuspecting travelers.  

Our next stop was Palas de Rei, a place I’d confidently call a town (it even has a signpost!). As we entered, we passed the Iglesia de San Tirso, a 12th-century Romanesque church that stands on a site of worship dating back to the 9th century. The moment I stepped inside, the energy of the place hit me like a wave. I felt compelled to light a candle, a small gesture of reverence in such a historic space.  

Later, it was off to the farmacia for the seventh time this trip—apparently, my body is keeping count. After a quick look around town, we settled in for a cup of tea to pass the time until our pickup.  The owner's husband of our accommodation, who had his golf clubs in the trunk, but the rain kept him away from the course.

Our second farm stay was a peaceful retreat. We took the opportunity to get some washing done. The owner did it for us for a small fee.  Washed, dried and folded in time to be packed for tomorrow's luggage pick up.

While Kim and Louise napped, I took a stroll into the nearby town of Sambreixo. The bridge there spans a weir, where water cascades into the Rio Pambre. The town center is marked by a cross, and unlike most places, the church sits down the hill in a quiet vale. By 5:30 pm, the sun made a brief appearance, but the blue sky was fleeting, quickly replaced by clouds once more.  

Steps 15,559

Accommodation:  Casa Blanco





Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Camino Portuguese Friday, 24 April 2026 - From Lisbon to Porto: Castles, Miracles, and a Chapel in the Sea

Friday, 24 April 2026 – From Lisbon to Porto: Castles, Miracles, and a Chapel in the Sea Today we finally headed to Porto. Alison had the brilliant idea months ago to book a private tour from Lisbon to Porto, and it turned out to be the best decision. Our driver, João, picked us up at 9:00 am, and we slipped out of the city, leaving the morning rush behind. The scars of the storm Driving north, we couldn't help notice the pine forests. Many looked brutally harvested, but the truth was worse. A cyclonic storm tore through here a couple of months ago, flattening homes, villages, and vast swaths of trees. The ones still standing are permanently bent—eerie sentinels of what came through. Petrol watch €2.13 per litre. Back home in Australia, we grumble at $2.65. Perspective is a funny thing. First stop: Óbidos We entered through the Porta da Vila, a tiled gateway into a 12th-century medieval hilltop town (because of course it's on a hilltop). Our first order of business? Gin...

Camino Portuguese Thursday, 23 April 2026 - Exploring Lisbon.

Thursday, 23 April 2026 - Exploring Lisbon After a simple but perfect breakfast of croissants with butter and jam from the supermarket, we set out for a full day exploring Lisbon. Our walk began along Rua Augusta, where the street is lined with restaurants and outdoor seating with a variety of food - lucky we had breakfast. At the end of the street stands the impressive Arco da Rua Augusta, which opens into the vast Praça do Comércio. The square stretches out toward the river and is home to the grand equestrian statue of King José I, giving the whole space a sense of history and scale. From there, we began the steady climb uphill to the Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa, the birthplace of Saint Anthony. Not far away, we visited Lisbon Cathedral, where we received our first stamp in our pilgrim credencial—a small but meaningful milestone. By then, we were ready for a treat, so we stopped for ice cream before heading downhill toward the Tagus River, where cruise ships quietly lined t...

Camino Portuguese Friday 01/05/2026 Vila Praia de Ancora Portugual to A Guardia Spain

01/05/2026 Friday Today we walked from Vila Praia de Âncora, Portugal, to A Guarda, Spain. We started along the coast, passing donkeys and goats, plus a peloton of cyclists up on the highway—we could hear them coming long before they arrived. A celebration race for May Day, a public holiday. When we reached Caminha, we found a water taxi and crossed the Minho River into Galicia, Spain. We ordered tea and a cold drink at a café, though Kim and Alison only got half a small cup of tea. Then we ate our bread rolls in a park and decided our routes. Kim and Julie took the long, flat coastal path, while Alison and I tackled the hills to see the Celtic village ruins. When we finally reached the first house, I told Alison to look around while I waited. She took two steps up and said, "You have to see this." She was right—it was amazing. The village houses were built of stone in circular shapes, packed so closely together that you couldn't walk between some of them. Was the climb w...