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Camino Frances 21 May 2024 - Ventas de Naran to Palias de Rei

Visitor in night and a short cut

Question for the day:  We asked our families on Whats App - What is this?


The only response we got was from Gary, who suggested it was a TV Antena.

"The structure depicted in the image is an hórreo, a traditional granary common in the northwest Iberian Peninsula, particularly in Galicia, Spain. The structure depicted in the image is an hórreo, a traditional granary common in the northwest Iberian Peninsula, particularly in Galicia, Spain" - Google image search

Adapted from Alison's diary entry:

Kim couldn’t find the motivation to leave the warmth of the bed this morning. Maybe it was the rain tapping steadily on the window, the lingering flu, or just sheer exhaustion—whatever it was, it had her firmly under its spell.  

Yesterday, I thought I had the room to myself. That illusion was shattered this morning when I returned from the bathroom to find my roommate poking his head out of the stone wall. A little brown mouse, quick and curious, darted back into his hole as soon as he saw me. “You just stay in there,” I said, stamping my feet for emphasis. But then, almost instinctively, I added a cheerful “Hola!” because, well, why not?  

The rain, unfortunately, didn’t share the mouse’s shyness and returned with a vengeance.  

Now, we’re waiting in the ante-chamber for our transfer. The space is striking, with an exposed gable ceiling and a massive ridge beam measuring a full foot by foot. The restaurant nearby boasts even larger beams, a testament to the craftsmanship of this place.  

My little cottage, cozy and quaint, looks like it was once a tool shed tucked beneath the shelter of a grand oak tree. It’s charming in its simplicity, a perfect hideaway.  


Still, we wait for our transfer. The driver, who also happens to be the cook, left over half an hour ago to drop off the last group. Patience, it seems, is part of the journey.  

When we finally hit the road, we were given a discount for the day—a small but welcome surprise. The driver dropped us off at an intersection with the Camino instead of taking us back to town. We had already driven the other 3km yesterday, so we didn’t miss much. The walk was easy, with gentle inclines and descents, though the icy rain nipped at my hands. I made a mental note to find shelter under the tree canopies to put on my gloves.  

After passing through Portos, we stopped at Meson A Brea, a roadside café in the middle of nowhere, for morning tea. The terrace, usually shaded by trees, was too wet to enjoy, so we opted for the warm, stone-walled interior. The tea was perfect, a small comfort in the damp weather.  

As we wandered through misty valleys and dense forests, it was easy to imagine Trasgos—mischievous elves from Galician folklore—lurking among the trees, playing tricks on unsuspecting travelers.  

Our next stop was Palas de Rei, a place I’d confidently call a town (it even has a signpost!). As we entered, we passed the Iglesia de San Tirso, a 12th-century Romanesque church that stands on a site of worship dating back to the 9th century. The moment I stepped inside, the energy of the place hit me like a wave. I felt compelled to light a candle, a small gesture of reverence in such a historic space.  

Later, it was off to the farmacia for the seventh time this trip—apparently, my body is keeping count. After a quick look around town, we settled in for a cup of tea to pass the time until our pickup.  The owner's husband of our accommodation, who had his golf clubs in the trunk, but the rain kept him away from the course.

Our second farm stay was a peaceful retreat. We took the opportunity to get some washing done. The owner did it for us for a small fee.  Washed, dried and folded in time to be packed for tomorrow's luggage pick up.

While Kim and Louise napped, I took a stroll into the nearby town of Sambreixo. The bridge there spans a weir, where water cascades into the Rio Pambre. The town center is marked by a cross, and unlike most places, the church sits down the hill in a quiet vale. By 5:30 pm, the sun made a brief appearance, but the blue sky was fleeting, quickly replaced by clouds once more.  

Steps 15,559

Accommodation:  Casa Blanco





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