The Final Countdown to Santiago: Forests, Hills, and a Shepherd’s Rescue
From Alison's diary entry
The countdown to Santiago has officially begun. Two walks remain, both 21 kilometres each. Today, we set out under a crisp 9-degree sky, not a cloud in sight, with the sun rising behind us, a quarter of the way to its apex. As we stepped out of our door, we were met with a sight that made us groan: a group of teenagers and their teachers, gathered and receiving instructions. Oh no, we thought—it’s going to be a busy day on the trail.
The morning started with a curious encounter. Two groups of cyclists passed us—the first rang their bells politely, while the second blew whistles. It was an odd contrast, and we couldn’t help but wish this courtesy had continued throughout the day. A simple “ring ring” or a friendly call to let pilgrims know you’re passing seems like common decency, but alas, it wasn’t to be.
Today’s path felt almost otherworldly. We walked below the canopy, the trail carved deep into the earth, with trees towering three meters above us. It was like stepping into a green cathedral, serene and shaded. In the distance, I spotted cyclists on the road, and higher still, pilgrims winding their way along a ridge. I pointed it out to Kim, who squinted and shook her head. “I can’t see what you’re pointing at,” she said. I snapped a photo, zoomed in, and showed her. “Oh, up there!” she exclaimed. “How are we going to get up there?” There was only one way to find out.
And up we went. At the top of the ridge, we felt like we were on top of the world, looking down on creation. (Cue The Carpenters—did you catch the earlier reference?) The view was breathtaking, but the descent into the forest brought a dramatic drop in temperature, a welcome relief after the climb. Then it was up another hill, across a road, and onward we pressed.
The sun was surprisingly strong today, strong enough to warrant a sunscreen stop—a first in weeks. As we walked, the crowds began to thin. Some were running marathons, others power-walking to the finish line, and then there was us, wandering at our own pace, soaking in the brilliance of the day without a care in the world.
We crossed a highway and paused for morning tea. Nearby, Louise spotted what looked like gum trees. “They brought them over in the 1860s to make furniture,” she explained. “Someone didn’t do their research—gum trees are hardwoods. They’d make lovely furniture… in about 100 years.”
Further along, we heard the frantic bleating of a lamb. It had slipped through the fence and was running back and forth in a panic, desperate to rejoin its flock. The shepherd soon appeared, opening the gate and ushering the lamb back to safety. It was a small but heartwarming moment, a reminder of the simple rhythms of life along the Camino.
We made a quick stop so Louise could tend to her big toe with some hiker’s wool. While she worked, we decided it was only fair to buy ice creams—after all, you can’t just sit outside a café and use their benches without contributing to the local economy.
Kim, struggling with a chesty cough and finding it hard to breathe, set a slower pace for the day. The hiker’s wool provided Louise with only temporary relief, but we pressed on, eventually reaching Casa da Fonte, our pickup point. The place was closed, and we fumbled with international roaming to call for our ride. Another farm stay awaited us, but first, I had to sprint to a nearby restaurant where a kind young man made the call for us. “Ten minutes,” he said. “Here?” I asked. “Yes, here.”
A quick dash back to Kim and Louise, who were blissfully unaware that their walk wasn’t quite over. Backpacks on, shoes laced, poles in hand, we trekked another 200 meters to the restaurant where our ride would meet us.
Our home for the night was a beautifully restored 200-year-old Galician house, a perfect blend of history and comfort. Frank, our driver, greeted us warmly.
And then came the laugh of the day. Kim, the only one who can load the Raw Travel app, made a late discovery: the little hiking man on the app’s map actually provides useful information—elevation, points of interest, cafes along the route. All this time, we’d assumed the app was useless. Turns out, it was just the user.
Steps: 35,109
Accommodation: Casa Rural Pineiro
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