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Camino Frances 8 May 2024 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

 A Tough Day, But I Kept Going

Today marked our first 21-kilometre day on the Camino, and with it came a gradual rise in elevation as we made our way toward Rabanal del Camino. The scenery shifted dramatically from the flat farmlands of earlier days to the gentle, rolling hills of the mountain range. It was a welcome distraction from the physical challenges of the walk and I knew Alison was worried about us. What with my hand and flu and Kim's foot was giving her trouble.


The mantra of the day? Slow and steady wins the race. we asked Alison to walk at my own pace for a while, so she set off ahead and made her way to San Catalina de Somoza.  When we arrive we found Alison's backpack propped on a table outside a café.

One of the joys of the Camino is the freedom to take your time. With the sun setting as late as 9:30 p.m., there’s no rush. We only passed through two towns today, but the path was dotted with plenty of picnic areas for breaks. Lunch was simple but satisfying—a leftover pastry from breakfast, a banana, and an orange.

As we approached Rabanal del Camino, the road into town was steep, and of course, our hotel was the very last one. 

Today was one of those days that tested me in ways I didn’t expect. The Camino is no stranger to challenges, but this one hit hard—both physically and emotionally.

I thought I had finally shaken off the cough that had been lingering since Alison caught a bug on the plane (thanks to sitting next to two unwell passengers). But just when I thought I was in the clear, it came roaring back. My nose was stuffed up, my throat was full of phlegm, and the coughing fits returned with a vengeance. Breathing felt like a battle, and every step was a struggle.

To make things harder, my training had already been interrupted by the flu earlier this year. Now, with this setback, I couldn’t help but feel like I was holding the group back. I’ve always been a slower walker, but today I was even slower, and the guilt of making others wait for me weighed heavily on my mind.

By the time I reached our accommodation, I was completely drained—physically and emotionally. I broke down in tears as soon as I got to my room. The combination of exhaustion, frustration, and feeling like a burden was overwhelming.

But the Camino has a way of providing small moments of comfort when you need them most. Kim, bless her, ran me a hot bath, and as I soaked, I could feel the warmth seeping into my tired muscles, bringing a little bit of energy and calm back into my body.

Dinner was a highlight of the day. The hotel’s Pilgrims menu had won awards, and it didn’t disappoint. The meal was delicious and comforting, though I was too worn out to stay for Grandma’s cake (I heard it was amazing, though!).

Stats for the day:

  • Steps: 37,837

  • Distance: 20 km

Accommodation:  La Posada de Gasper

Today reminded me that the Camino isn’t just about the physical journey—it’s about resilience, vulnerability, and finding strength even when things feel impossible. It’s about accepting help from others (thank you, Kim and Alison!) and being kind to yourself when you’re not at your best.

The cough might still be here, but so am I. And tomorrow, I’ll keep walking.

Kim, Louise & Alison

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