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Camino Frances 6 May 2024 - Day 1 Leon to Astorga

Day One on the Camino Frances

Most of the journalling on this trip was done by Alison, with a couple of days by myself and Kim.  I have adapted journals where I can.

Our day began early with bags out by 8 a.m., followed by a quick breakfast. By 9 a.m., we were picked up and headed to Hospital de Órbigo, where our adventure truly began. RAW Travel's itinerary allows for pickup by taxi from Leon with the relatively short drive saving us 2 days of walking through industrial and residential areas.  After snapping a group photo to mark the start of the day, we set off.

The highlight of the morning was crossing the Puente del Órbigo, a stunning 13th-century bridge spanning the Órbigo River. The bridge’s history is fascinating, and we were particularly captivated by the nearby jousting grounds. It turns out we just missed the Fiesta de las Justas del Paso Honoroso, a medieval festival held on the first weekend of June. Timing is everything, right?

As we left the paved roads and ventured onto dirt tracks, the terrain became more challenging. Large rocks littered the path, which was a bit tricky for Kim, but we pressed on. Our morning tea stop in Santibáñez de Vidriales was a welcome break—coffee for some, and a soothing lemon and ginger tea for Alison. Unfortunately, the local church was closed (it is Monday, after all), but we did pick up our Camino clam shells from a charming roadside stall.


Camino Distance Marker to Santiago de Compostella

The scenery was absolutely breathtaking—so much so that we got a little distracted. I took a tumble on a rock, reminding us that the Camino is as much about overcoming challenges as it is about the journey itself. A quick first aid session from Alison and some creative use of sternum straps to elevate my swollen hand (with an ice pack, no less), and we were back on the trail.



Lunch was a simple yet satisfying affair at one of the many community-run rest stops along the way. Rice crackers, cheese, watermelon, and an orange hit the spot, and we appreciated the honor system of payment by donation.


Not something that we like to talk about, but we had our first bush wee for the trail.  The first of many.  Ladies, don't for get your Kula Cloth, or remember to bring a plastic bag to take your rubbish with you.  Don't leave anything behind.

As we approached Astorga, the sight of the town in the distance gave us a much-needed boost. We crossed the Rio Tuerto and followed a peaceful path through parkland, away from the main road. But just when we thought we were in the clear, we encountered the infamous “Peregrino Torture Tower”—a bridge crossing over the railway line that felt like an endless uphill climb.

Finally reaching the town, we stumbled upon an Irish pub—our first stop. While it wasn’t quite the Guinness pie or bangers and mash we’d hoped for, a warm bowl of soup did the trick. After refueling, we discovered our hotel was just a 7-minute walk away. A hot bath and a cozy bed never felt so good.

The Camino will test us, but with every step, we’re learning to embrace the challenges and celebrate the small victories.

Stats for the day:

  • Steps: 36,039

  • Distance: 16.6 km

Accommodation:  Hotel Gaudi

Kim, Louise & Alison


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