Jaipur to Agra, Steps into history.
We visited The Stepwell Chand Baori at Abhaneri: I had no idea what we were visiting as I couldn't understand what our guide was saying. I was just in awe of this structure. Nestled in the quaint village of Abhaneri, Rajasthan, lies a marvel of ancient architecture and engineering—the Chand Baori stepwell. This breathtaking structure is not just a testament to human ingenuity but also a portal to a bygone era, where every step tells a story.
As you approach Chand Baori, the sheer grandeur of its geometric precision takes your breath away. Built over a thousand years ago during the reign of King Chanda of the Nikumbh dynasty, this stepwell is one of the deepest and largest in India. With 3,500 narrow steps cascading down 13 stories to a depth of 100 feet, it’s a sight that leaves you in awe of the craftsmanship and vision of its creators
The stepwell’s design is a masterpiece of symmetry and precision. The crisscrossing steps form a mesmerizing pattern, creating a visual spectacle that feels almost otherworldly.
Glenn and I were truly immersed in the local culture when we received a beautiful blessing—a vibrant red bindi on our foreheads and a sacred thread bracelet tied around our wrists. The red dot, a symbol of wisdom and protection, and the bracelet, representing good fortune and connection, felt like a warm embrace from the traditions of this incredible place. It was a moment of pure connection, reminding us why we travel—to experience, to learn, and to carry a piece of the world with us, both literally and figuratively.
Today took an unexpectedly delicious turn! We weren’t scheduled for a big lunch stop, but our ever-thoughtful guide, Alok, worked his magic and rearranged the itinerary to include a meal at Jatoli Ghana. And what a meal it was! The spread was nothing short of a feast—warming soup, succulent tandoori chicken, fragrant mustard chicken, sautéed vegetables, fluffy rice, Singapore noodles, creamy dahl, and a flavourful dish of potatoes and cauliflower. Every bite was a celebration of spices and textures, leaving us utterly satisfied and grateful for Alok’s spontaneity.
By 1:00 PM, we were back on the road, our bellies full and our spirits high, continuing our journey toward Agra. The day was long, with hours spent on the bus, and it was time for a nap.
We arrived at the majestic Agra Fort, a colossal fortress that rises from the earth like a sentinel of history. Its towering red sandstone walls, weathered by centuries of sun and rain, seemed to whisper stories of emperors, battles, and opulent courts.
As we stepped through the grand gate, the sheer scale of the fort took our breath away—it was not just a structure but an entire city within walls, a testament to the grandeur of the Mughal era.
Every corner of the fort unfolded like a page from a history book. The intricate carvings on the walls, the delicate marble inlays, and the sprawling courtyards transported us to a time when this place was the heart of an empire.
The view of the Taj Mahal from one of the fort’s balconies was nothing short of magical—a distant, shimmering vision that felt almost surreal.
Standing there, surrounded by such immense beauty and history, Glenn and I couldn’t help but feel small yet deeply connected to the world.
Just when we thought the day couldn’t get any more adventurous, our itinerary took another delightful detour! Instead of heading back to the hotel for some free time, our guide, ever the master of efficiency, suggested we visit the Baby Taj today to save time tomorrow. We hopped into a tuk-tuk for a thrilling ride. Let me tell you, riding in a tuk-tuk through Agra’s chaotic streets is an adventure in itself! The traffic was a symphony of honking horns, weaving motorcycles, and fearless pedestrians, all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. At times, it was equal parts exhilarating and terrifying, but it added an unforgettable layer of authenticity to our journey.
Glenn had been split up from me during the tuk-tuk rides, as we had to divide into groups of three. He ended up riding with Ally and Deb, but their driver had a little adventure of his own in store for them. Unbeknownst to us, their driver was deaf—and apparently didn’t catch the instructions on where to drop them off. To make matters more chaotic, he was on his phone (how could he even hear?!) trying to figure out where to go, while Glenn was in the back, shouting, “They’ve hung up!”
Standing there, surrounded by such immense beauty and history, Glenn and I couldn’t help but feel small yet deeply connected to the world.
Just when we thought the day couldn’t get any more adventurous, our itinerary took another delightful detour! Instead of heading back to the hotel for some free time, our guide, ever the master of efficiency, suggested we visit the Baby Taj today to save time tomorrow. We hopped into a tuk-tuk for a thrilling ride. Let me tell you, riding in a tuk-tuk through Agra’s chaotic streets is an adventure in itself! The traffic was a symphony of honking horns, weaving motorcycles, and fearless pedestrians, all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. At times, it was equal parts exhilarating and terrifying, but it added an unforgettable layer of authenticity to our journey.
Officially known as the Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah, this exquisite mausoleum is often called the "jewel box" of Mughal architecture—and for good reason. Built before the Taj Mahal, it felt like a hidden gem, with its intricate marble inlays, delicate latticework, and serene gardens. It was as if we were stepping into a prelude of the grandeur that awaited us at the Taj Mahal itself.
But the surprises didn’t end there. Next, travelled to a viewing point of the Taj Mahal from across the river. The sight took our breath away. There it was—the Taj Mahal, shimmering in the distance like a dream.
While walking back to the our pick up point, I snapped a shot of a monkey sitting on a fence. He wasn't happy about it, so we moved very quickly out of the way.
Another thrilling tuk-tuk ride later, we found ourselves back at the Fort, where our trusty bus was waiting to whisk us away. But just as the bus started to move, I realized something was off—Glenn and the girls were nowhere to be seen! Panic set in for a brief moment before I quickly alerted Alok, our ever-dependable guide.
Glenn had been split up from me during the tuk-tuk rides, as we had to divide into groups of three. He ended up riding with Ally and Deb, but their driver had a little adventure of his own in store for them. Unbeknownst to us, their driver was deaf—and apparently didn’t catch the instructions on where to drop them off. To make matters more chaotic, he was on his phone (how could he even hear?!) trying to figure out where to go, while Glenn was in the back, shouting, “They’ve hung up!”
It was one of those moments that could only be described as equal parts hilarious and nerve-wracking. By the time they finally arrived, the girls were thoroughly frazzled, and Glenn was ready to swear off tuk-tuks for life. But as we all shared a laugh and recounted the story, it became one of those unforgettable travel tales—the kind that reminds you that sometimes the best memories come from the unplanned, chaotic moments.
After a quick stop at the hotel to freshen up, we were back on the move, this time for a culinary adventure that promised to tantalize our taste buds. Our destination? A bustling food lane in the heart of Agra, where the air was thick with the aromas of sizzling spices and the lively hum of street vendors. We dove headfirst into the vibrant chaos, sampling an array of street food delights—each bite a burst of flavour, from Momos, Aloo Tikki to Moong Da Ka Chilla, and something else I can't remember the name of. It was a feast for the senses, and we couldn’t get enough.
Then we visited the Sancha Tea shop for the perfect blend of spices, tea leaves, and milk, all simmered to perfection. The first sip was pure warmth and comfort, a delicious reminder of why chai holds such a special place in Indian culture.
Today was a day of contrasts—long bus rides and quick tuk-tuk dashes, ancient forts and bustling markets, quiet reflection and joyful indulgence. It was a day that reminded us to embrace the unexpected, to savour every moment, and to find beauty in both the grand and the simple. Agra, you’ve stolen a piece of our hearts
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