Camino Portuguese Friday, 24 April 2026 - From Lisbon to Porto: Castles, Miracles, and a Chapel in the Sea
Friday, 24 April 2026 – From Lisbon to Porto: Castles, Miracles, and a Chapel in the Sea
Today we finally headed to Porto. Alison had the brilliant idea months ago to book a private tour from Lisbon to Porto, and it turned out to be the best decision.
Our driver, João, picked us up at 9:00 am, and we slipped out of the city, leaving the morning rush behind.
The scars of the storm
Driving north, we couldn't help notice the pine forests. Many looked brutally harvested, but the truth was worse. A cyclonic storm tore through here a couple of months ago, flattening homes, villages, and vast swaths of trees. The ones still standing are permanently bent—eerie sentinels of what came through.
Petrol watch
€2.13 per litre. Back home in Australia, we grumble at $2.65. Perspective is a funny thing.
First stop: Óbidos
We entered through the Porta da Vila, a tiled gateway into a 12th-century medieval hilltop town (because of course it's on a hilltop). Our first order of business? Ginja—a sour cherry liqueur served in a tiny chocolate cup. More liqueurs should absolutely be served in edible cups.
We wandered up to the Santiago Church, now a beautiful bookshop, then climbed the old city walls for panoramic views that stretched forever. After that, we visited Santa Maria Church (still a real church), famous for its blue tiles and a rather startling piece of history: it hosted the royal wedding of King Alfonso V in 1441. He was ten years old.
Second stop: Fátima
What can I say? The square is enormous. The "outdoor church" feels less like a chapel and more like a stadium for the soul.
A line of tiles leads to the church—a path that pilgrims crawl on their knees, seeking healing. I know it's meant to be an act of struggle and sacrifice, but honestly? Give them padded kneepads.
Some history: Fátima is one of the world's most important Catholic pilgrimage sites, centred on the 1917 Marian apparitions reported by three young shepherd children. Today, around 4 million visitors come each year.
That year, Lúcia Santos (10) and her cousins Francisco (9) and Jacinta Marto (7) said they saw a "Lady more brilliant than the Sun" at Cova da Iria.
We saw the Chapel of the Apparitions, built on the exact spot—Pope Francis prayed here in 2017. We also visited the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, a 65-metre-tall Neo-Baroque church holding the tombs of Saint Francisco, Saint Jacinta, and Sister Lúcia. And the modern Basilica of the Holy Trinity (capacity: 9,000), built in 2007 to handle the crowds.
Third stop: Lunch
We ate at Tipico Restaurant in Mealhada—a proper traditional pork meal with homemade potato crisps and salad. Nothing fancy. Just perfect.
Fourth stop: Aveiro
They call it the Venice of Portugal. We took a motorised seaweed-harvesting boat through the canals. Yes, seaweed-harvesting. It's as quirky and delightful as it sounds.
Bonus stop: Capela do Senhor da Pedra
This might have been the most magical of all. A small chapel embedded right into the rocky shore of Vila Nova de Gaia—and you can only reach it at low tide. The Atlantic swelling around it, the stone worn by salt and years. Unforgettable.
Arrival in Porto
We pulled into Porto around 6:45 pm, dusted with road and memory, ending a beautifully busy day along Portugal's Atlantic coast.
Alison and Julie had an early night, while Kim and I had dinner, but weren't far behind them. Sleep tight.
Today we finally headed to Porto. Alison had the brilliant idea months ago to book a private tour from Lisbon to Porto, and it turned out to be the best decision.
Our driver, João, picked us up at 9:00 am, and we slipped out of the city, leaving the morning rush behind.
The scars of the storm
Driving north, we couldn't help notice the pine forests. Many looked brutally harvested, but the truth was worse. A cyclonic storm tore through here a couple of months ago, flattening homes, villages, and vast swaths of trees. The ones still standing are permanently bent—eerie sentinels of what came through.
Petrol watch
€2.13 per litre. Back home in Australia, we grumble at $2.65. Perspective is a funny thing.
First stop: Óbidos
We entered through the Porta da Vila, a tiled gateway into a 12th-century medieval hilltop town (because of course it's on a hilltop). Our first order of business? Ginja—a sour cherry liqueur served in a tiny chocolate cup. More liqueurs should absolutely be served in edible cups.
We wandered up to the Santiago Church, now a beautiful bookshop, then climbed the old city walls for panoramic views that stretched forever. After that, we visited Santa Maria Church (still a real church), famous for its blue tiles and a rather startling piece of history: it hosted the royal wedding of King Alfonso V in 1441. He was ten years old.
Second stop: Fátima
What can I say? The square is enormous. The "outdoor church" feels less like a chapel and more like a stadium for the soul.
A line of tiles leads to the church—a path that pilgrims crawl on their knees, seeking healing. I know it's meant to be an act of struggle and sacrifice, but honestly? Give them padded kneepads.
Some history: Fátima is one of the world's most important Catholic pilgrimage sites, centred on the 1917 Marian apparitions reported by three young shepherd children. Today, around 4 million visitors come each year.
That year, Lúcia Santos (10) and her cousins Francisco (9) and Jacinta Marto (7) said they saw a "Lady more brilliant than the Sun" at Cova da Iria.
We saw the Chapel of the Apparitions, built on the exact spot—Pope Francis prayed here in 2017. We also visited the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, a 65-metre-tall Neo-Baroque church holding the tombs of Saint Francisco, Saint Jacinta, and Sister Lúcia. And the modern Basilica of the Holy Trinity (capacity: 9,000), built in 2007 to handle the crowds.
Third stop: Lunch
We ate at Tipico Restaurant in Mealhada—a proper traditional pork meal with homemade potato crisps and salad. Nothing fancy. Just perfect.
Fourth stop: Aveiro
They call it the Venice of Portugal. We took a motorised seaweed-harvesting boat through the canals. Yes, seaweed-harvesting. It's as quirky and delightful as it sounds.
Bonus stop: Capela do Senhor da Pedra
This might have been the most magical of all. A small chapel embedded right into the rocky shore of Vila Nova de Gaia—and you can only reach it at low tide. The Atlantic swelling around it, the stone worn by salt and years. Unforgettable.
Arrival in Porto
We pulled into Porto around 6:45 pm, dusted with road and memory, ending a beautifully busy day along Portugal's Atlantic coast.
Alison and Julie had an early night, while Kim and I had dinner, but weren't far behind them. Sleep tight.
Comments
Post a Comment