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Camino Frances 11 May 2024 - Ponferrada to Cacabelos

 A Scenic Stroll Through Spain’s Vineyard Country

Adapted from Alison's diary entry:

Our day began early with breakfast at 7:30 AM and bags packed by 8:00. By 9:00 AM, we were lacing up our walking shoes and setting off on today’s journey from Ponferrada to Cacabelos. This stretch of the Camino marked our entry into the lush vine region of Northern Spain, a landscape that felt like stepping into a postcard. Rolling hills stretched endlessly, dotted with a mix of ancient and newly planted vines. Some of the older vines were so thick and gnarled they resembled trees, standing proudly in untended fields. Meanwhile, the younger vines, protected by covers at their base, patiently waited for their time to bear fruit in the coming years. It was a beautiful reminder of the cycle of growth and harvest that defines this region.  

The walk itself was a mix of asphalt and gravel roads, which, while scenic, were tough on the feet. Thankfully, the terrain was relatively flat with only a few small climbs, making it manageable despite the heat. Ah, the heat! We’d hoped to avoid it by traveling in May, but the sun had other plans. By mid-morning, we were grateful for a refreshing break in Fuentes Nuevas, where we cooled down with cold drinks and indulged in Magnum ice creams—a perfect pick-me-up.  

Kim, ever the nature enthusiast, had us pause to admire the roses along the way, their fragrance filling the air. Lunch was a simple affair in Camponaraya, where we nibbled on cake from the breakfast bar and shared a mandarin. The search for shade became a recurring theme, and I found myself scanning the road ahead for any hint of relief from the sun. Eventually, we stumbled upon a perfect spot where Alison and Kim had already settled. To our delight, a local vendor had set up a stall selling handmade jewelery and crafts, adding a touch of charm to our break.  

The rest of the walk was a rhythm of short stops—catching our breath, sipping water, and giving our feet a much-needed rest. As always, Kim and Alison were ahead, patiently waiting for me to catch up.  

By the time we reached Cacabelos, we were ready to unwind. After checking into our accommodation, a hot bath and a good rest were all we had energy for. No sightseeing today—just relaxation. Dinner at the hotel was a quiet affair, followed by an early night to recharge for the next leg of our journey.  

Today’s stats: 28,040 steps and 15.7 km 

Accommodation:  La Moncioa de San Lazaro

Stunning vineyard views, fragrant roses, and the warmth of the Spanish sun. Until tomorrow, Buen Camino!

Kim, Louise & Alison

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