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Camino Frances 4 May 2024 - Madrid to Leon

From Madrid to León: The Journey Begins

They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and thankfully, all the hotels we’ve stayed at so far have served up a delicious spread to fuel our adventures. Today marked the start of our Camino journey, and we were ready to hit the road—or rather, the rails.

Our Renfe Fast Train

Basilica de San Isidoro



A Smooth (Mostly) Train Ride to León

I’d booked us on the fast train with Renfe, Spain’s national railway service, to take us from Madrid to León. We grabbed a taxi to Madrid-Chamartín-Clara Campoamor Station, where we boarded the train scheduled to depart at 10:24 AM. Well, scheduled is the key word here. The train ended up leaving about 40 minutes late, and we faced another 20-minute delay along the way. But hey, travel is all about rolling with the punches, right? 


We’d splurged on first-class tickets, which meant we had assigned seats and a bit more legroom—perfect for relaxing and enjoying the scenic views as we sped toward León.


Settling into León


Once we arrived, we got our bearings (hooray—my phone was finally unlocked, and the eSIM was installed!), and walked to our hotel. After checking in and settling into our room, we headed out to explore the city.


By around 3:30 PM, we were ready for lunch and opted for pizza—because sometimes you just need a slice of comfort food. Post-lunch, we visited the Basilica de San Isidoro, a stunning Romanesque church with a rich history. The architecture and atmosphere were breathtaking, and it felt like the perfect way to ease into the Camino spirit.


The Eternal Quest for a Proper Cup of Tea


Now, let’s talk about tea. As self-proclaimed tea enthusiasts, we’ve discovered that Spain is very much a coffee-drinking country. Ordering a simple cup of black tea with milk on the side (so the tea has time to steep properly) has become a comical challenge. Despite our best efforts—¿Puedo tomar una taza de té negro con leche aparte?—it seems to be a concept lost in translation. This quest for the perfect cup of tea might just haunt us for the rest of our travels.


A Light Evening


After our tea adventure (or misadventure), we decided to skip dinner. Between the late lunch and the excitement of the day, we were ready to rest up for the adventures ahead.


Ready for the Camino


From here on out, our accommodation and luggage transfers are being expertly arranged by RAW Travel, so we can focus on the journey itself. The Camino Frances awaits, and we’re ready to take it one step at a time.


León has already charmed us with its history and beauty, and we can’t wait to see what the rest of the Camino has in store. Stay tuned for more updates from the trail!

Pro Tip for Fellow Travelers: If you’re a tea lover visiting Spain, maybe pack your own tea bags—just in case. 😉

Accommodation: Hotel Real Colegiata San Isidoro

 9233 steps 6.59km

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